Italian whites made for summer sipping

Don't get me wrong, I am not one of those A-B-C (Anything But Chardonnay) people; in fact, I am very fond of chardonnay. Especially French chardonnay, when it's Chablis or even a modest little Macon.

But it's all too easy to fall into a white wine rut, especially in summer, when you thirst for something crisp and refreshing, something without the heavy alcohols and tannins of winter reds.

If you are feeling a little bored, and a little adventurous, it may be comforting to know that Italy alone has more than 900 different indigenous (native) wine grapes -- a veritable Ben & Jerry's of wine.

Historically, few of these ever made it to a wine label; rather, they were dumped into generic blends and served chilled on hot summer afternoons, from simple tumblers, with simple foods. But in recent years, with changes in Italy's winemaking laws, and the passing of the torch to a new generation of winemakers, more and more of these once-obscure grapes have gone upscale.

Their names adorn fancy packages and pretty labels, and you may pay a little more for the pleasure of their company. But rest assured, they will still taste best when slightly chilled, drunk from tumblers, and paired with a picnic on a lazy summer afternoon -- some things, thankfully, never change.

Here are some lively, zesty white wines, from distinctive Italian grapes, styled for lightweight summer sipping. Note that a DOCG designation is usually higher quality than DOC, while IGT is anything goes territory. All these wines are distributed by Unique.

* Terredora di Paolo 2007 Falanghina, $17, Irpinia DOC. Falanghina, it is believed, was introduced by the Greeks to southern Italy. It's bright, spicy and aromatic, with fresh herbs and citrus skin flavors.

* Velenosi 2006 Pecorino "Villa Angela," $18, Marche IGT. A hint of spritz, very fresh, firm and lively, with a crisp mix of celery, cucumber, light citrus and mineral. A truly delicious bottle.

* Vinosia 2006 Fiano di Avellino, $23, Fiano di Avellino DOCG. A fascinating wine, lemon yellow, scented with lemon oil, beeswax, honey and jasmine. In the mouth it is smooth, almost satiny, rich and concentrated. It requires a palate adjustment at first sip, but the flavors gather strength and really resonate.

* Terredora di Paolo 2006 "Loggia Della Serra" Greco di Tufo, $24, Greco di Tufo DOCG. This has more focus and precision than the less expensive whites, along with a strong streak of spice and a hint of mint. The fruit is a tart, tight, racy mix of citrus rind, grapefruit, pineapple and gooseberry.

* Abbazia di Novacella 2007 Kerner, $26, Alto Adige -- Valle Isarco DOC. Kerner is a cross of riesling and schiava, a red grape. This is extremely spicy with a scent and flavor (not unpleasant) of pine oil and resin. Concentrated and distinctive, it's a good wine for those who like to play with food matches (maybe a rich shellfish like lobster or crab and a butter sauce?).

* Vietti 2007 Roero Arneis, $26, Roero Arneis DOCG. Exceptionally leesy, textural, creamy and lush in the mouth, though light in alcohol. Bracing and full, this is a quintessentially refreshing wine that lifts the palate and embraces food. The flavors are elegant, even delicate, but immensely present and lingering, like a wet kiss.

Robert Mondavi's 95th birthday was on June 18, just a short while after the famed Napa vintner, in failing health for the last few years of his life, passed away.

Mondavi was gracious and kind to me on several occasions over the years, none more so than at a private luncheon a decade ago at the Four Seasons in Seattle. His autobiography, "Harvests of Joy," had just been published. During the course of a three-hour meal, the conversation waxed both enological and philosophical, buoyed by his good spirits, my spirited questioning, and ample quantities of excellent wine (most particularly a 1996 Carneros Pinot Noir of which he was especially proud).

I still have the book, which he inscribed with these words: "To Paul -- What a great pleasure to have lunch with you today. In my book I made it clear one must excel, have complete confidence, be completely honest; interest is not enough, you must be passionate and have patience. Learn to give first; if you have patience, in time you will receive much more. It is better to give than receive. God bless you."

God bless you, Mondavi. Better advice I have never received.

Pick of the Week

* San Lorenzo 2006 Verdicchio "Vigna di Gino," $10.

Verdicchio, like Greco and trebbiano, makes light white wines often scented with pine or almond. This inexpensive bottling shows surprising concentration and weight, along with ripe flavors of peach, nectarine and Meyer lemon. It carries a characteristic hint of straw and hay.

* Paul Gregutt can be reached at wine@seattletimes.com.

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